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Still, Durran and her team spent hours painstakingly creating Knightleys 30s-inspired silk dress, which had to have movement at the hem and a low back

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Think rich colours, textured fabrics such as velvet and corduroy and quirky detailing such as lapels made from contrasting cloth

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There wasnt, unfortunately, a clandestine colloquium, but there was menswear, a conversation that began online, in the early aughts, largely on Internet forums devoted to mens fashion